Dartmoor Classic Climbs

Dartmoor Classic Climbs course – August 2010

Dewerstone, Hound Tor and Hay Tor over the course of two days.

A rainy start to our day at the dewerstone didn’t inspire confidence for our planned routes but we started off on the classic “route B” to warm up which was fine in the wet. The weather started to be kind to us so we then climbed the brilliant VS “Leviathan” followed by graham leading the ultra-classic HS “central groove”.

The aim of the day was for Graham to second an E1 so we headed up the two pitch climb “Scimitar” which at E1 5b is no push over for the grade, especially when slightly damp from the mornings rain.

The following day we headed up to the high dartmoor venue of hound tor. Warming up again we ticked off a few good routes with Graham and Ben leading:

Sheep may safely graze – Severe

Cantilever Direct – Hard Severe 4b

Liars Dice – Severe

An unnamed – Very Severe

After all that is was time for a quick break and a drive towards Hay Tor. Graham lead “Levitation”, a great Hard Severe on the right hand side of the tor. We then headed up “Aviation”, another multi pitch E1 that is probably the best on the moor. Graham was climbing even better than the day before and we completed the climb in time to fit one last one in, a good severe called “Raven’s gully”.

All in all a good couple of days. Here’s a few photos from the climbing action.

Aviation E1 5b, 5b at Haytor, Dartmoor

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