During February half term I climbed Tower ridge on Ben Nevis with my father Mike. Here’s is account and photo gallery of the climb.
I have wanted to do Tower Ridge almost from when I first went up to Scotland over thirty years ago, so when Ben suggested it as a possible route we could do, it felt pretty special.
Tower Ridge is probably together with the Cullin Ridge the most famous ridge climb in the UK, famous for the quality of the route but also for the number of people who get benighted on it. So although I have been keen to do it, the criterion was, a very competent partner together with good visibility to enjoy the views.
Thursday February 17th met those criteria, good weather conditions and a strong partner. We arrived at the bottom of the East Gully at the same time as Andy Cave & Mick Tighe together with their clients.
The first pitch is a slightly awkward mixed three metre section, so I felt a bit intimidated having Andy climbing just behind me! although I must admit he was very friendly and easy going every time we met up on the route.
After the first pitch, the route eased off and I was able to relax as I followed Ben up some easy snow slopes until we arrived at the Little Tower. After a short steep section we continued up on fairly easy but spectacular ground sometimes moving together sometimes pitching some short sections until we arrived at the Eastern Traverse.
The Eastern Traverse is not technically hard but is quite an exposed snowy horizontal traverse that bypasses the steep wall of the Great Tower. The traverse is about four metres long before it goes around the corner and a bit more technical climbing up to the top of the Great Tower. We had quite a wait for our turn on the traverse and it would have been sensible to have got out my belay jacket and stay warm, a lesson learnt. There was quite a sociable group all waiting their turn, all very patient and with good humour.
From the top of the Great Tower it was possible to see the famous Tower Gap and then the last snowy slopes to the top. The walk along the narrow ridge to the top of the Tower Gap was reminiscent of some alpine routes, quite narrow and with exposure on either side. The climb down into the gap was intimidating but was helped by a sling to hold onto, there was then a tricky step up onto the other side before easy snow slopes led to the top.
Tower Ridge deserves its four star rating, I absolutely loved it and hope it won’t be another 30 years until I do it again!
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