Matterhorn Training Course

This training week is designed for an alpine climber wanting to make the step from snowy mountaineering routes such as Mont Blanc or the Grand Paradiso to more technical climbs such as the Matterhorn and Eiger etc.

Nice mixed mountaineering ground on Pointe Lachenel
Nice mixed mountaineering ground on Pointe Lachenel

It certainly isn’t Matterhorn specific, as the skills and techniques we practice are suitable for any climb of that nature, graded “AD”.

Climbing these type of long rock alpine routes doesn’t require steep rock climbing skills, but you need to be very confidant on your feet and able to scramble on exposed terrain for many hours. During this weeks training course we aim to give you that confidence, with a mixture of valley based climbing sessions and short alpine routes in the high mountains.

The trip is based from Chamonix and we make use of the Aiguille du Midi lift and the Helbronner lift on the Italian side. There are numerous short alpine climbs here that we can climb in ascent and descent that are great climbs in themselves. Towards the end of the week we often travel further afield to Arolla or Saas Fee to climb a longer route on a higher peak after staying the night in a high mountain refuge.

This five day course has a very flexible programme as we want to make the most of the weather and conditions each day but here is a sample (five day) programme;

  • Day1. Meet in Chamonix early morning for introduction and equipment check. Then climbing in the Aiguille Rouge or Rock Climbing session in the valley. Night in Chamonix.
  • Day 2. Aiguille du midi mountaineering. Example routes would be the traverse of Pointe Lachenal, Cosmiques Arete. Night in Chamonix.
  • Day 3. Travel through the Mont Blanc tunnel and use the Helbronner lift from Courmayeur. A rocky alpine ridge such as the Marbrees, Aiguille d’ Entreves traverse. Night in Chamonix.
  • Day 4. A short morning rock climbing session in the valley. Travel to Arolla/Saas Fee etc and walk to mountain refuge.
  • Day 5. Climb our peak! Example mountains include Lagginhorn, Weismess, Mont Blanc du Cheilon. Return to Chamonix.

We recommend a maximum ratio of 1:2 for this course, as this gives us the opportunity to climb good technical terrain that isn’t possible with a large group. We run most of our trips for private groups (contact us with your preferred dates), but we do schedule a small number of trips each year.

Our five day Autumn trip is scheduled for October 17th – 21st.

The price of the trip includes all travel during the course and guiding fees.

It does not include accommodation in Chamonix or on the mountain, lift passes, insurance or gear hire etc.

The 2016 trip cost is £850 per person, with a non-refundable deposit of £500 which is deducted from the total price of the trip on the final payment.

If you are interested in more information or to make a booking please contact us here.

Scrambling terrain near the Helbronner lift
Scrambling terrain near the Helbronner lift
Matterhorn Summit
Matterhorn Summit