East Ridge – Breithorn AD-, III-

Route:

East Ridge – Breithorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

With such easy access from Zermatt using the lift system, the Breithorn is one of the most popular 4000m peaks of the Alps. The Breithorn, or “broad peak", stretches over two kilometres across the Zermatt skyline.

 Although the normal route is an easy snow plod from the lift, the East ridge, or half traverse, is a brilliant mixed route with the bonus of a quick descent back to the lift station. After a glaciated approach, an often icy slope leading to the col, the ridge rises in a series of rock steps, which are mostly scrambling or short pitches of grade III climbing.

Lot's of moving together, short roping and short pitching up good solid rock. The ridge then narrows into a fine snow arete which leads on to the summit. The nature and the altitude of the route means it is a great “training” climb for longer or more committing mountains, such as the Matterhorn's Hornli ridge.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4164m

520m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift

Time/duration:

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 1.5 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Private Guiding

Lifts/huts etc:

Guide d'Ayas refugio

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the snow twins Castor and Pollux.

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